The closest thing to an urban center in Upcountry is Makawao.  Today Makawao is a lively community of cowboys and hippies, with galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. In the renovated stores, you'll find everything from a general store and an old-fashioned barbershop to health food, holistic medicine, and designer fashions. You can buy feed for your horse or gourmet olive oil for your kitchen, a bowl of saimin or fettuccini with porcini mushrooms. The town is a paradox of old paniolo and new age, pickup trucks and BMW's. That's what makes Makawao special - the old welcoming the new in the true Upcountry spirit.